
Rows of vanilla vines, musky all-spice, sweet cinnamon trees, medicinal plants and brightly-colored bromeliads dot the expansive Villa Vanilla property in tiny Villanueva, 17 kilometers east of Quepos in the Central Pacific region, where owner Henry Karczynski is intent on starting a one-man farming revolution.
Karczynski ,who has lived and worked in Costa Rica for the last 26 years, started his farm 15 years ago with what he calls "tunnel vision:" planting row upon row of vanilla plants. After several mid-1990 years of wetter-than-usual weather, hurricanes and finally a spate of fusarium (fungal disease), many local vanilla farmers, including Karczynski, lost it all.
It was at that moment the German-born, Chicago-bred former Peace Corps member decided he had to begin studying. He had always been a certified organic farmer, simply because he didn't like chemicals, but as he began to expand his "esoteric knowledge" he learned about entirely new farming methods that have helped his farm recover slowly.
He now boasts the only Demeter-Certified Biodynamic farm in Costa Rica. Biodynamic agriculture emphasizes holistic concepts, going beyond organic agriculture for maximum sustainability, including adding medicinal plants to compost heaps and harnessing the earth's and the moon's energy to make plants healthier. For example, Karczynski plants when the new moon begins, and chops wood only in the waning moon.
"Certain people have always had this knowledge, we're just trying to repeat it," he said. "Rich ancient cultures focused on these rhythms, based on mathematics and astronomy."
There are three sheep, two goats, two cows and several chickens and roosters on the large property, which has 11 hectares of farm land and 50 hectares of primary and secondary forest. According to Karczynski, animals are very important to biodynamic agriculture, especially smaller ones, which have less of an impact on fragile soil.
He is now putting the finishing touches on a compost heap that adds air, much like a fish tank, to a mixture of molasses, kelp, humic acids (earthworm castings, which he says are essential to the mix), fish emulsion, manure and other materials. He then sprays the mixture onto plants.
Karczynski also adds a mix of organic materials to the base of plants as mulch (fertilizer), which increase microbes beneficial to plants.
Karczynski is now thrilled to show his farm to visitors, slowly expanding his agriculture project to include an element of ecotourism. He loves to play "show and tell" with his products, offering visitors samples of vanilla, cinnamon, allspice and pointing out the many fruit trees, including mangos, guanabana, avocado and pineapple plants.
Vanilla is the star of the farm, and Karczynski is quick to extol its benefits, pointing out that it is the only edible orchid among 35,000 species, and is native to Central America. He also offers guests ideas about using vanilla in coffee or adding vanilla beans to sugar for added flavor. Karczynski recommends www.vanilla.com, with excellent recipes from "Vanilla Queen" Patricia Rain, to expand the traditional use of vanillas in dessert recipes. (See also Creative Cook: Capturing the Elusive Essence of Vanilla).
Visitors to the farm stay in either a small cabin with one bedroom ($35 per night) or a larger cabin with three bedrooms ($45 per night for up to 4 people, $5 each additional guest), with two double beds and one single. The larger cabin is especially inviting, offering incredible views of the surrounding hillside. Both cabins, rustically decorated in mostly fallen wood from the farm, come with fully-equipped kitchens.
Cabins are perfect for nature-loving families or couples in search of a few relaxing days on the farm. Villa Vanilla not only offers a window into the workings of a small farm, but guests can take advantage of nearby trails and animal-spotting opportunities. Villa Vanilla is also close to Quepos and Manuel Antonio by bus, which stops in front of the farm, or by car.
There are three kilometers of trails on the property in addition to walks around the farm. One steep, rather difficult trail extends down to a waterfall and small swimming hole and circles around an enormous ceiba tree, about 30 feet in diameter. Karczynski can guide guests around the property or organize other tours.
He also invites student volunteers, who pay $25 a week, to stay in a very basic cabin with a kitchen, which accommodates five people. Volunteers work from 6 a.m. to noon, five days a week and help with mulching, composting, greenhouse work or special skilled-labor projects, such as woodworking.
For more information, call 232-8552 (Saturday-Tuesday) or 779-1155 (Wed nesday-Friday) or see www.rainforestspices.com, with useful information on area activities, sustainable and biodynamic agriculture and more photos of the farm and cabins. Reservations are necessary.
To purchase products, try the Bio Salud health food in the Plaza del Sol mall in Curridabat and in Multiplaza; Grand Gourmet in Multiplaza, Comercio Alternativo in Escazú or gift shops in Quepos. For more information on the biodynamic agriculture movement, see www.demeter-usa.org.
Getting there:
By car: From San José, take the Inter-American Highway north. From Alajuela, continue toward Atenas and San Mateo. From San Mateo, head south toward Jacó and Quepos. Just before Quepos, is a fork-like intersection. Turn left toward Playa Dominical. At the first intersection, take a left (there is a gas station is on the right). Drive 6.2 kilometers to another fork in the road through the small town of Naranjito. Turn left at the fork and continue for another 3.9 kms. Villa Vanilla is on the left.
By bus: Take the Quepos-bound bus from the Coca-Cola bus station in San José. Once in Quepos, take the bus that says Villanueva for about 40 minutes, until you reach the town. Villa Vanilla is on the left.
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Quepos and Manuel Antonio have a lot more to offer than gorgeous
beaches. In this fertile eco-tourism destination, it is worthwhile to learn
about the conservation efforts by local residents, dedicated to rehabilitation
of rainforest animals and the recuperation of the once-endangered edible vanilla
orchids flourish in this bountiful region.
Janine Licare, age 16, co-founder of Kids Saving The Rainforest (KSTR) shares
her thoughts, “I feel the earth belongs to the animals and we are crowding
in on them.”
Seven years ago, Licare created KSTR with her mother, Jennifer Rice, a co-owner
of Manuel Antonio’s Blue Monkey Hotel. The mother/daughter team founded
the organization to raise money to buy and preserve local rainforest habitat.
Recently, they also built and opened the KSTR Center, an animal rehab and education
facility in Valle Pura Vida. We were introduced us to the latest recovering
guest, an orphaned baby two-toed sloth named Moguly.
“
We rehab them until they are ready to be released, and care for them in a way
that won’t change the way they want to live in their natural environment.” Licare
explained.
In Manuel Antonio National Park, it is common to see sloths, spider monkeys,
squirrels, raccoons, white-faced monkeys, and howler monkeys.
We met some of these monkeys over lunch while dining at Hotel Makanda by the
Sea’s Sunspot Bar and Grill. They came down from the trees to see what
our hamburgers and grilled vegetable salads looked like. It’s likely
that our visitors used one of 95 rope bridges KSTR built around Manuel Antonio
to dissuade monkeys from scampering across live power lines, resulting in primate
electrocution.
The region’s vanilla industry also experienced a jolt a few years ago
when a series of tropical hurricanes deposited an astounding eight meters of
rain for two successive years, bringing production to a halt. In the wake of
the tragedy, Henry Karczynski, manager of the biodynamic farm Villa Vanilla
in Villa Nueva, investigated sustainable agricultural practices; and after
much research, his attention was drawn to an approach called Biodynamics. Through
this practice, Karczynski reconstructed the vanilla industry in the area.
He planted the damaged crop in a soil devastated by pathogenic fungi to create
an environment that encouraged repopulation of the vanilla orchid with beneficial
microorganisms. This edible orchid is of Central American origin and was first
documented when Spanish conquistador Cortez met Aztec Emperor Montezuma in
Mexico and was offered a chocolate, honey and vanilla drink called Tlilyochitl.
The vanilla plant is the most labor-intensive crop in the world because the
delicate flower needs to be hand-pollinated in order to produce enough for
the market, but today the farm is thriving. In fact, Villa Vanilla has expanded
and grows spices, essential oils, and medicinal plants, as well as fruits and
flowers.
Wet and covered in dirt from our rainforest hike, draped in vanilla vines and
loaded with cinnamon bark and other goodies purchased from the Rainforest Spices
shop on-site, we departed Villa Vanilla, Quepos and Manuel Antonio ingrained
with a sense that we had experienced all that the good earth had to offer.
